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Broiled Salmon Filet with Bacon, Wild Mushrooms, and Oyster Sauce
Here, the bacon and the broiler combine to drive even more brown flavor into salmon fillets

1-pound salmon filet (about 1 inch thick)
salt and pepper to taste
5 thin slices of smoky bacon
1 cup very firmly packed, diced fresh shiitake mushrooms
1 teaspoon finely minced garlic
2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley plus whole parsley leaves for garnish
2 tablespoons Chinese oyster sauce
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

1. Preheat broiler. Season the salmon filet well with salt and pepper. Wrap 3 of the bacon slices, evenly spaced, around the salmon filet. Place fillet on a roasting pan and broil until just done, about 10 minutes.
2. While the salmon is broiling, prepare the sauce: Cut the remaining two slices of bacon into small squares. Place in a heavy sauté pan over high heat. Cook until medium-brown, about 2 minutes. Pour out all but 1 teaspoon of the bacon fat. Reduce heat to moderately high. Add the shiitake mushrooms, stir well, and sauté until mushrooms become golden brown, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, stir in garlic and minced parsley, and cook for 1 minute. In a bowl combine the oyster sauce with 1/4 cup of hot water. Blend and add to sauté pan. Cook 1 minute and season with the nutmeg.
3. To serve, remove the wrapped bacon from the salmon (you may discard the bacon or use it as a garnish). Delicately slice the salmon along the natural separations, and divide among 4 plates. Top each with one fourth of the sauce and with a flat parsley leaf for garnish.

Here, the bacon and the broiler combine to drive even more brown flavor into salmon filets—making this dish an especially good candidate for a Riesling or a fruity red wine, like a young California Pinot Noir. Serves 4 as a first course Recommended wine: Riesling