One of the triumphs of the Italian baker's art, Columba Cake, which is traditionally shaped like a dove, is made from a starter and fermented for two days, which allows it to keep without preservatives. Soft and cakelike, it is rich with butter and eggs, and loaded with the finest candied oranges, raisins and dried cherries. Topping it off is a baked-on almond icing that is applied before baking, giving it a sweet, crisp crust.